When I first began exploring the world of photography during my studies in 1996, one name that stood out for me was the portrait photographer Irving Penn. His extraordinary vision and impeccable technique, particularly in portraiture and still life, captivated my imagination when I first saw his work whilst studying photography at Edinburgh College of Art.

Penn was renowned for his meticulous, minimalist approach. Whether photographing high fashion for Vogue or creating intimate portraits of cultural icons, his work consistently exuded elegance and simplicity. One of his most iconic projects, Small Trades (1950-51), left a lasting impression on me. The series documented tradespeople—bakers, butchers, and florists—in their work attire, set against a plain backdrop. Penn’s ability as a portrait photographer to distill the essence of his subjects into striking, timeless images became a significant inspiration for me.

Marchande de Ballons (B), Paris, 1950 [Balloon Seller]

Irving Penn’s Remarkable Career

Throughout his prolific career, Penn seamlessly bridged the realms of fashion, fine art, and editorial photography. His work featured an extraordinary range of subjects, from portraits of artists and writers to fashion as well as still life images that felt remarkably ahead of their time. What struck me was how he balanced his highly personal creative projects with demanding commercial assignments for Vogue and other high-profile clients.

Penn’s distinctive use of natural light and neutral backdrops created a timeless quality in his portraits. He captured subjects such as Pablo Picasso, Audrey Hepburn, and Truman Capote with a sense of intimacy that revealed their character in a captivating and poetic way. This unique ability to present his subjects as both individuals and symbols of their era turned his photography into a profound document of the 20th century.

Pablo Picasso at La Californie, Cannes, 1957

Penn’s Personal Projects: A Deep Inspiration

In addition to his commercial work, Penn was deeply committed to his personal projects, which often reflected his interest in culture, craftsmanship, and nature. He created striking still-life images that transformed the subjects—cigarette butts, bones, or flowers—into compositions of remarkable beauty. These works taught me to find inspiration in the seemingly mundane and to approach every subject with curiosity and reflection.

Cigarette No. 17, New York, 1972

I strive to maintain a balance between my personal and commissioned work and his approach reminds me that photography can be a form of introspection and discovery, whether the work is of a commercial nature or taken as part of a personal project. This philosophy continues to influence my current work, including my portrait series on UK visual artists.

Who Was Irving Penn?

Born on June 16, 1917, in Plainfield, New Jersey, Irving Penn initially pursued painting at the Philadelphia Museum School of Industrial Art. However, his fascination with photography led him to a lifelong career in the medium. After working as an assistant to Alexey Brodovitch, the legendary art director of Harper’s Bazaar, Penn joined Vogue in 1943. He quickly became one of the most influential photographers of his time, pioneering a style defined by simplicity and precision.

Penn’s contribution to fashion photography was transformative. Unlike his contemporaries who often relied on elaborate sets, Penn photographed his subjects against austere backdrops, allowing their personality and the artistry of the clothing to clearly stand out. Over the years, he pushed the boundaries of the genre with bold compositions and dynamic poses.

Man Lighting Girl’s Cigarette (Jean Patchett), New York, 1949

Legacy and Lessons from Penn

Irving Penn believed that photography was a deeply personal art form. His body of work is a testament to this ethos, blending technical precision with emotional depth.
Penn’s ability to elevate photography into a form of fine art has had a profound impact on generations of photographers. His work continues to inspire me to seek simplicity, authenticity, and beauty in the images I take.
To delve deeper into Irving Penn’s legacy, explore resources such as the Irving Penn Foundation or retrospective exhibitions that celebrate his enduring contributions to the art of photography.

See some of my portrait photography here, and a post about my recent project of portraits of UK artists here.